![]() ![]() The other option is to cut off the splice and use a halyard hitch - but I am not sure if this is as safe as (or nearly so) the spliced eye. And while I have spliced 3-strand, no experience with braided. I suppose I could cut the eye off and re-splice, but I don't have a fid and am not sure how short the spliced part can safely be. I have been experiencing some furler jamming since I got this new halyard, I think because the halyard cannot be hauled in enough due to that jamming- the shackle can't be hauled in closer than about 4 in toward the sheave opening. The H23 has a rather narrow metal fitting that supports the jib sheave, and the splice jams in that fitting (I can see the "clamp" marks on the line) just about where the splice starts. The supplier sent it with an eye that is about 1 in long, plus the tail goes about another 3 in, maybe 3.5, inside the outer jacket. Pull the eye tight, then pull 30mm of the core out and cut with a taper.OK, I need to shorten the "fat" part of my jib halyard where the eye splice is inside the outer jacket. Now pull hard on the eye and work the cover down and round the eye so there is no longer any core visible in the splice’s neck Milk the core back over the cover so the tapered end of the cover pops back inside the core. Halve the cover, insert it into the fid eye and pull fid back through coreĬut the end of the cover at an angle. Now insert the fid into the core 400mm from the rope end and exit at (E). Thread core and cover through any hardware you wish to include in the eye now, such as a snap shackle, then insert half of the core’s end into the fid eyeĬarefully pull the fid back through, unhook the core from the fid eye and pull the core further through until D aligns with A and E aligns with B Tease it carefully down the rope between the core and cover, exiting the rope at (B) Insert a pulling fid about 3in (80mm) up the cover between (C) and the hitch. Align (D) with (B) and mark the core, (E), level with (A) Pull the core out at (C) from the end of the rope. Mark the core, (D) at the point it came out Using the end of a fid, tease out the core of the rope at point (C). Lay the loop the size you want and make mark (C), where you want the other side of the splice’s neck, opposite (B) Mark (B) two and a half times the rope’s diameter from mark (A) towards the end. Hitch the line to something solid two or three metres back to stop the core and cover slipping beyond this pointĬut off melted end and using a marker pen, mark rope, (A), 25 times the rope’s diameter from its end See our guide to a three-strand eye-splice here. Also thicker rope is less fiddly to work, with more space between core and cover, so try your first splice on 12mm diameter or larger. New rope is more slippery and hasn’t yet been stretched and compacted between core and cover, so is much easier to work and splice. ![]() This splice is a real money saver as there are potentially a lot of these splices within a yacht’s running rigging. In the second of a six part guide to splicing, Sailing Today takes a look at a double braid eye splice, a neat-looking but tricky splice.ĭouble braid lines with a polyester core are commonly used for a variety of low stretch running rigging roles such as halyards, reefing and control lines. ![]()
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